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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.